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I lay on the bed unable to sleep but hoping beyond hope that the train would arrive late. However, my hopes were dashed when the conductor shook my shoulder and warned that “We are arriving in 5 minutes”. The train pulled into to Tianshui Station at 3.57am exactly on time and we alighted bleary eyed.

Crossing the square in front of the station we looked for a hotel. Unfortunately, all insisted we would have to pay the full rate for the 2 hours to 6 o’clock. One receptionist suggested that we leave the luggage at the hotel and either sit in the lobby or go out until 6.00 am. My stingier side got the better of me despite Margie’s protests. So we dumped the luggage behind the reception desk and headed out to the square where a number of food stalls and small stores remained open. We grabbed a few beers [Read more →]

Tags: Gansu Province by Adam
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There were 2 options; wade up the raging river or try and duck under the rickety looking scaffolding. We chose the latter. The last bars of the scaffolding were too high to step over and too low for me to comfortably duck under. I kept getting my day bag hooked on the rusty bars, rocks and stones fell from the over hanging cliff and the rain was incessant.  I could feel I was going to get a lumbago at any moment and  remembered how the guide book had described the Water Curtain Caves , Lahshao Si and the valley in which they were located as the embodiment of old China; serene and beautiful. At that moment it was a living hell.

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Another gem in Eastern Gansu, the Water Curtain Caves (Shuilian Dong) and Lashao Si 拉稍寺 take a bit of  an effort to reach, especially if you are using public transport, but reward the intrepid with a valley of Taoist temples, rock carvings and paintings, without another tourist in sight. Unfortunately, for the next year, the path up the valley is being rebuilt and building work is everywhere somewhat spoiling the valley’s isolation. The huge carved Buddha and paintings overlooking the valley are under going restoration, but at least the scaffolding is being withdrawn and they can be seen [Read more →]

Tags: Gansu Province, Travel by Adam
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Situated in eastern Gansu province, Gangu is not one of China’s most attractive towns, in truth it is quite ugly. However, if you are in Tianshui visiting Maiji Shan and have a day to spare, the large 23 meter moustached statue of Sakyamuni a few kilometers outside Gangu is well worth visiting and can be easily combined with a trip to the beautiful Water Curtain Caves near Luomen.

The Sakyamuni statue, sculpted at the height of the Silk Road’s importance during the Tang Dynasty, is approached by climbing a temple lined trail on Daxiangshan大像山. While none of the temples are spectacular, [Read more →]

Tags: Gansu Province, Travel by Adam
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Our Route: August / September 2009

Here is a quick breakdown of our route this summer made over a period of nearly six weeks using a combination of train, bus, taxi and boat travel. Some serious problems with altitude sickness made us cut short our visit to the area around Nangchen in Qinghai province.

As soon as we get back to Madrid (in 2 weeks) and go through our photos we’ll put up small texts for the blog and longer ones for the Web. We are also working on a new Photo gallery.

• Tianshui and around: Maiji Shan – Gangu and the Moustached Sakyamuni – The Longmen Water Curtain Caves
• Lanzhou – The Gansu Provincial Museum – The Yellow River
• Xining – Youning Si and the Tu minority
• Yushu and around – Longxi Si – Nangchen – Leba Gorge – Princess Wencheng Temple – Seng-ze Gyanak Mani Wall – Zhira Gompa – Trangu Gompa – Domkar Gompa – Sebda Gompa
• Yushu to Ganzi – Serxu Dzong – Dzogchen Gompa – Manigango
• Ganzi and around – Beri Gompa – Dagei Gompa
• Chengdu and around – The New Jinsha Site Museum – Pingle – Luodai – Kuan Xiangzi
• Chongqing and around – Ciqikou – Songji
• Chongqing to Yichang – The Three Gorges – The Three Little Gorges – The Three Gorges Dam.
• Wudang Shan – Climbing up – Climbing down
• Wuhan – The Hubei Provincial Museum – Colonial Buildings- Great Food.
• Beijing – New restaurants – The New Capital Museum – Black jails

Books read during the trip:

• Author – Mo Yan / Big Breasts and Wide Hips
• Author – Yu Hua / Brothers
• Author – Zhu Wen / I Love Dollars And Other Stories of China

Tags: Uncategorized by Adam
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The Tibetan town of Yushu in Qinghai province is completely open (August 2009). There had been several reports that it was closed, or travel in and around the town was being severly restricted. We found it very open and relaxed with no limits on where we could travel so long as we didn’t try to cross into actual Tibet. The only thing banned was the annual horse racing festival.  The authorities apprantly feared what might happen if thousands of Tibetans got together.

The new airport had opened too. With either daily or twice weekly flights (depending on who you asked) for around 1,100 yuan to 1,300 Yuan for a one way ticket.

The 18.00 luxury sleeper bus (16 hours) is probably the best way to get to Yushu. However, the ride is made uncomfortable by the heavy smoking of your fellow passengers. The drivers all smoke as well despite signs everywhere saying it is prohibited. Avoid the last seats on a sleeper bus as you are cramped into a very tight and claustrophobic space at the back with 5 other people.

Tags: news, Qinghai Province, Travel by Adam
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